Know Your Chikankari: A Journey Through Lucknow’s Most Celebrated Craft

FLO Lucknow hosted an event titled Know Your Chikankari: A Journey Through Lucknow’s Most Celebrated Craft at the ADA Chikankari store. Hazratganj on a Thursday afternoon, inside Ada Chikankari, 40 women discovered that what they thought they knew about the city’s most famous craft was, at best, the surface. The session began with history — and it needed to, because Chikankari without its context is just embroidery. With it, every stitch carries the weight of three centuries of craft lineage, of Mughal courts and Nawabi patronage, of women in old Lucknow workshops passing technique from hand to hand across generations. 

Around 40+ Members who have worn Chikankari their entire lives found themselves learning the names of things they had always seen but never identified: the flat, running tepchi stitch, the raised murri, the delicate phanda, the dramatic jali work that lets light through the fabric in patterns that take weeks to complete. From history, the session moved into process — and this is where the afternoon shifted from interesting to genuinely affecting. 

The journey of a single Chikankari garment involves not one artisan but many: the designer who creates the pattern, the block maker who carves the wooden stamp, the chhipai who transfers the pattern onto fabric, the embroiderer whose hands do the actual stitch work, the dhobi who washes out the ink without damaging the thread, the finishing artisan who checks and completes the final piece. That a garment bought for an afternoon outing represents this many lives and this much labour is information that changes how you hold it.

The hands-on segment brought this understanding into the body. Members tried stamping —

pressing carved wooden blocks onto fabric with the pressure and angle that produces a

clean, usable pattern. They attempted basic stitches under guidance, discovering in minutes

what takes artisans months to develop into muscle memory. Several tried Mukesh work —

the application of fine metal thread that gives certain Chikankari pieces their characteristic

shimmer — and left with a renewed respect for the steadiness of hand it requires.